Expeditions
Peak 1
Shishapangma
Date of Summit: 26 April 2023, approx 14.31 pm local time
Height above Sea Level: 8,091 metres (26,335 ft)
Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th highest mountain in the world. It is located entirely within China.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | Apr 16 | – | – |
| BC – C1 | Apr 23 | – | 9h 53min |
| C1 – OWN CAMP | Apr 24 | – | 7h 30min |
| OWN CAMP – C2.5 | Apr 25 | – | 2h 56min |
| C2.5 – Summit – BC | Apr 26 | -C3 | 20h 22min |
Logistics to: Trek in.
Logistics from: Trek out.
Shisha was a very hard and challenging climb, mentally and physically. Also, no climber other than nimsdai ‘s Project Possible has been on Shisha since 2014.
We did one rotation carrying and fixing ropes up to C3 and slept two nights without oxygen at 7500m. Then we came down and left BC for summit push. We climbed to C1 and woke up the next morning with not great weather, saw nothing on way up to C2.5 so set down tents before reaching it and had a terrible night with 5 people were sleeping in one tent.
Next morning clear weather and a short walk to C2.5. We started summit push at 7AM with clear skies. But realized we were using too much time and it was very windy so I started to use my emergency oxygen from C3. After leaving C3 the wether was nice. We were unsure if we were going the right way because there were no people and no tracks to follow.
It took a long time for us to get to the summit even if it was only 900m climb. At around 4:45PM Lama reached the summit, followed by Matias (who was filming) and then me. We were so so happy to be on the summit. The rest of the team was on the summit with us together and it was really nice to be with Viridiana Alvarez and Sophie Lavaud.
I want to give a huge appreciation to Lama for all of the job he did on this climb, he carried so much rope up and without him this summit would not have been possible.
It’s so awesome to start this project. We had a quick descent back down to C2.5 after around 45 mins on the summit, and then all the way down to BC. We had a summit push of 22 hours total!
I want to thank everyone who made this possible and all those who were involved in Shisha.
Peak 2
Cho Oyu
Date of Summit: 03 May 2023, 12:45 PM local time
Height above Sea Level: 8,188 metres (26,864 ft)
Cho Oyu is a mountain peak on the border between Nepal and China. The mountain is the world’s sixth highest and was climbed for the first time in 1954 by an Austrian expedition led by Herbert Tichy. The mountain has since been climbed many times, i.a. by several Norwegians.
Photo source: Cho Oyu (8201m) from Tingri
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | April 30 | – | – |
| BC – C1 | May 02 | – | 7h 46min |
| C1 – Peak – BC | May 02 | Just below C3 | 23h 46 min |
Logistics to: Trek in.
Logistics from: Trek out.
After Shisha, we rested for 3 days in Tingri and went directly up to Cho Oyu BC with one rest day there before starting up to C1. It was a long way up.
We had a plan to go to C2 from BC but saw that it would be too long to do that so we rested in C1 for 5 hours before starting the summit push of 1800 metres! The longest summit push I have ever done.
We knew we had a chance with the weather even if there was a lot of wind. So we started from C1 at 1am. The conditions on the mountain were good with no deep snow. After a little, Matias decided to go back to C1.
Lama had a high speed because he knew we had to climb such long way and he was fixing ropes as we were climbing. It was windy so at about 6900m I put on oxygen.
After 14 hours we reached the summit with Lama and Ngima. It’s a very very big plateau on Cho Oyu. There were high winds up there and we also saw the Nepal mountains.
After summitting, we went straight down to C1. There was a lot of wind and I had some problems with my eyes. I was happy to see Matias, Viridiana and the others sherpas in the team. Then, we decided to go all the way back to BC. The whole journey from C1 to summit and down again took about 23 hours.
Cho Oyu was the hardest climbs I’ve ever done, not only because of the very long push, but also the short rests.
I was super tired after the climb but I am happy that we were able to summit both mountains. Unfortunately, we were only given the permits to climb Shisha and Cho Oyu once.
Peak 3
Makalu
Date of Summit: 13 May 2023, 08.27 am Local time
Height above Sea Level: 8,481 metres (27,825 ft)
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world andis located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi)southeast of Mount Everest, in Nepal. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolated peak in the shape of a four-sided pyramid.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | May 9 | – | – |
| BC – C2 | May 11 | – | 5h 27 min |
| C2 – Peak – BC | May 12 | C3 | 30h 09 min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Heli out.
The story from Makalu 8485m, May 13th 2023
This mountain was a challenge and I would not have been able to climb it alone. It only took four days between leaving Kathmandu and coming back and this was only possible because of the extraordinary teamwork from everyone.
Seven Summit Treks planned everything smoothly and we knew how to reach the summit in a short amount of time.
I was sad about leaving Jens but arriving to the SST Makalu BC was nice and I met two friends who supported me a lot. Thank you Prakriti Varshney and Oswaldo Freire.
After a day in BC, the fixing team, Lama, Manish and me went up to C2. Everyone performed really good except me. I felt very sick. It took us 5h to get up to C2, where we got a good rest before starting for C3 next morning.
It took us 7h to reach C3 and I was still not in good shape, I got a UTI and hesitated turning back. We rested there for 3h30 and started the summit push at around 7pm. I was so impressed by the teamwork of the fixing team (Makalu Lakpa Sherpa), Lama and the BC organizer. Lakpa Sherpa was nice and postive and a great leader.
We climbed for many hours in the dark, there was no wind but it was super cold on the mountain. Because of my body condition I put on oxygen from C3 at about 7500m.
After 13+ hours, the team reached the summit. Lama and the rest of the fixing team did an amazing job for all of us. The only reason we were able to summit this time was because of great teamwork.
The UTI also made the climb down very painful and I had to pee a lot. It made the descent much more difficult. I also got a problem with my eye on the way down and had trouble seeing anything…
After a 24h descent we finally got back to BC and I am feeling a little better.
I want to again say how grateful I am for all of those who made this climb possible. Without your support, teamwork and strength I would not have been able to climb Makalu. Thank you so much to my super strong sherpa Tenjin, to the incredible fixing team Lakpa Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.
Peak 4
Kangchenjunga
Date of Summit: 18 May 2023, 12.39pm Local time
Height above Sea Level: 8,586 metres (28,169 ft)
Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā and Khangchendzonga, is the third-highest mountain in the world.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | May 13 | – | – |
| BC – C2 | May 16 | – | 4h 26min |
| C2 – C4 | May 17 | – | 8h 58min |
| C4 – Peak – BC | May 17 | Above C4 | 27h 21min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Heli out.
The story from Kangchenjunga, 8586m, May 18th 2023.
We arrived at BC Kangchenjunga, the world’s 3rd highest mountain, after 2 days of rest in Kathmandu. The same day we arrived in BC, we climbed up to C2. I was happy to feel in good shape. It took us 4 hours up to C2 where we had a good rest.
The following day, we climbed straight to C4. It was a long climb day of about 8 or 9 hours. At C4, we got a couple hours rest before the summit push.
Lama started in front together with the fixing team. There were a lot of climbers in C4 that were ready to summit. I started out at 8:30PM with Gelu sherpa and put on oxygen when we left C4.
After hours in pitch darkness, queuing with all the climbers, we realised we were on the wrong path. So, at 8200 meter, with everyone walking one after the other, we all had to turn around and walk back. This was stressful and difficult for all of us.
Daylight came as we got back on the right track. However, there was no fixed rope on this path. We decided to go with a main rope, only 3 of us: Lama, Gelu and me, just attached to each other. It is harder to climb without fixed rope but we continued up even though we were all tired.
We reached the summit at around 1pm, after a 16-hour summit push. It was a super long push and an extremely hard mountain to climb with a lot of rocks.
On the summit, we were welcomed with awesome weather! We filmed, took pictures and started to climb back down. On the way, we had an accident where Gelu hurt his leg. He decided to rest in C4 with the other climbers, while Lama and me continued to BC.
After 28 hours we were down in BC. We had to wait an extra day for weather to clear for the helicopter to bring us to Lukla. This meant we could greet Gelu coming in to BC just one day after us.
I am so grateful for Lama having the energy to climb up with me again. This last mountain has been very difficult for all of us mentally and physically and I can’t express how thankful I am for his strength and his help.
Thank you to my super strong sherpas Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa and Gelu Sherpa from Seven Summit Treks.
Peak 5
Everest
Date of Summit: 23 May 2023, 02.52am Local time
Height above Sea Level: 8,848 metres (29,029 ft)
Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world and is located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas in Nepal and Tibet. It is part of the Seven Summits and is considered to be a part of the eight-thousanders. It also has a long history of being a challenge for climbers who attempt to reach the top.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | May 19 | – | – |
| BC – C2 | May 20 | – | 6h 38min |
| C2 – C4 | May 21 | C3 | 12h 30min |
| C4 – Peak – C4 – Peak Lhotse – C2 | May 22 | From C3 | 18h 01min |
| C2 – BC | May 23 | – | 4h 19min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Heli out.
The story from Everest and Lhotse, 8848m and 8516m, May 23rd 2023.
It’s always nice to come back to Everest and the big circus that is the Everest BC, it’s a totally other game, so many climbers and so many people!
We started up Khumbu icefall from 2am, we actually had a really nice climb up with Jake Meyer and Lama. It took us 6h up to C2. We were in good shape and decided to leave directly to C4 the next night.
After an 8h climb, we arrived in C4. I had put on oxygen from C3. It’s most normal to sleep in C3 but we decided to skip that since we wanted to try for the summit as soon as possible.
We had the whole day to rest at C4 and at 9:30pm Lama and me started to climb up to the summit. There is not so many people that early, so we were out before the queue and the people.
We had nice pace up and reached the summit after 5h30, it’s my fastest climb up Everest ever! On the summit it was totally dark, super cold and windy.
After taking some pictures, we went down to C4 in less than 2h where we took a short short break with water and snacks before started climbing up Lhotse.
In Lhotse couloir there is more snow than Everest and not so many people. While climbing we had a problem with one oxygen bottle, so we weren’t able to use it. In the last 50mins of the climb up, Lama was without oxygen but we took it slow and he was in good shape.
After 7h45, we reached the Lhotse summit, where we had a beautiful view. So we took some pictures and started climb down fast because we had no more oxygen and a long climb down. We took a short break in C2 before going all the way down.
Tenjin was a super hero (again) and made us move so fast. Which is very important in this kind of project, he is really an amazing amazing sherpa.
It was super nice to be back down in Everest ABC where 14 Peaks Expedition had a super nice base camp. Thank you Seven Summit Treks for getting me such a luxury tent
I’m super happy to have done Everest and Lhotse for the third time and in the same day again! And super happy to be back in KTM with Jens, and taking some days rest before the next climb.
Peak 6
Lhotse
Date of Summit: 23 May 2023, 10.35am Local time
Height above Sea Level: 8,516 metres (27,940 ft)
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world,after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. The main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| C4 – Peak – C2 | May 22 | From C3 | 8h 01min |
| C2 – BC | May 23 | – | 4h 19min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Heli out.
The story from Everest and Lhotse, 8848m and 8516m, May 23rd 2023.
It’s always nice to come back to Everest and the big circus that is the Everest BC, it’s a totally other game, so many climbers and so many people!
We started up Khumbu icefall from 2am, we actually had a really nice climb up with Jake Meyer and Lama. It took us 6h up to C2. We were in good shape and decided to leave directly to C4 the next night.
After an 8h climb, we arrived in C4. I had put on oxygen from C3. It’s most normal to sleep in C3 but we decided to skip that since we wanted to try for the summit as soon as possible.
We had the whole day to rest at C4 and at 9:30pm Lama and me started to climb up to the summit. There is not so many people that early, so we were out before the queue and the people.
We had nice pace up and reached the summit after 5h30, it’s my fastest climb up Everest ever! On the summit it was totally dark, super cold and windy.
After taking some pictures, we went down to C4 in less than 2h where we took a short short break with water and snacks before started climbing up Lhotse.
In Lhotse couloir there is more snow than Everest and not so many people. While climbing we had a problem with one oxygen bottle, so we weren’t able to use it. In the last 50mins of the climb up, Lama was without oxygen but we took it slow and he was in good shape.
After 7h45, we reached the Lhotse summit, where we had a beautiful view. So we took some pictures and started climb down fast because we had no more oxygen and a long climb down. We took a short break in C2 before going all the way down.
Tenjin was a super hero (again) and made us move so fast. Which is very important in this kind of project, he is really an amazing amazing sherpa.
It was super nice to be back down in Everest ABC where 14 Peaks Expedition had a super nice base camp. Thank you Seven Summit Treks for getting me such a luxury tent
I’m super happy to have done Everest and Lhotse for the third time and in the same day again! And super happy to be back in KTM with Jens, and taking some days rest before the next climb.
Peak 7
Dhaulagiri
Date of Summit: 29 May 2023, 05.47am Local time.
Height above Sea Level: 8,167 metres (26,795 ft)
Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal).
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | May 26 | – | – |
| BC – C1 | May 27 | – | 8h 13min |
| C1 – Peak – BC | May 28 | From C3 | 33h 31min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Heli out.
The story from Dhaulagiri, 8167m, May 29th 2023.
It’s been some hard and challenging days since we flew from Kathmandu and arrived early morning in Dhaulagiri BC. We decided to go straight to C2 but after a couple of hours, we realized it was too far so we only went up to C1 and stayed one night there.
The condition from BC was not so good, there was a lot of snow and we had to break trails to go up the mountain. We woke up early the next day and at 7am we started from C1 to go up to what I thought was just going to be C2. But after 6 hours to C2 we decided to continue up to C3. It took us 11-12 hours to reach C3.
There, we had some tea and food and after that, continued the climb to the summit. After C2, the condition of the climb was much better. Me, Lama, Lakpa and Nima started out around 10:30 and after 23 hours total from C1, we reached the summit!
It was a very nice climb, and a lot faster than what I did last year between C3 and the summit, the condition was a lot better. Although there was some wind on the summit, it was good before reaching the summit. It was a super nice and amazing morning view with Annapurna behind us.
We then climbed down from the summit, all the way to BC after 34h. It was my longest summit push ever.
I didn’t know how we would be able to do such a long summit push but we did it and the sherpas were amazing. Overall, I’m very very happy we made it and so happy and grateful for the strong team from Seven Summit Treks . It was a really nice climb and we had a great time together. Thank you so so much Lama, Lakpa, Nima and Pasang.
I’m super happy to be halfway through and 7 mountains done, it was all in a very short time and I’m a little tired. Still, I’m super happy now and enjoying some rest days in Pokhara.
Peak 8
Annapurna
Date of Summit: 5 June 2023, 05.57am Local time.
Height above Sea Level: 8,167 metres (26,795 ft)
Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal).
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | June 2 | – | – |
| BC – C2 | June 3 | – | 9h 59min |
| C2 – C3 | June 4 | – | 7h 57min |
| C3 – Peak | June 4 | From C3 | 25h 35min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Heli out.
The story from Annapurna, 8091m, June 5th.
I’m very happy to be done with Annapurna, one of the most difficult mountains. I’m always more nervous about Annapurna because of the challenging climb and the high risk of avalanche. I was worried about going so late in the season, since there had been no summits since April, and it’s a completely different climb to be alone compared to when I did it last year.
I saw some people ask why there were so many sherpas on this climb, but it’s totally different to climb with no people in the mountain compared when there is a lot of people, which is why there was such a big team of sherpas, and I’m grateful because they did a great job.
We arrived in BC and rested until 3am the next morning, 4 sherpas were already in C2 and we climbed up to meet up with them. The conditions were ok and we slept until 4am the next morning in C2.
We left at 5am with very good conditions. It was a really nice climb up, much easier than last year. We took a 3h rest in C3 before the summit push. We climbed from C3 and used 14h to get to the summit. The climb conditions were ok and the weather was great. I put on oxygen in C4.
I was very happy to reach the summit. It was thanks to the really strong team who did a great job.
We wanted to be as fast as we could while being safe because we knew there could be snow, so I am so impressed by everyone’s teamwork and strength. When at the summit you are only halfway and a lot of accidents happen on the way down, so we safely and slowly made our way down to BC with rests along the way at the other camps.
I felt so so sleepy. I even fell asleep multiple times! So, I’m super tired but happy to be done with 8 mountains in the spring. It’s only me and Lama who have done this in such a short amount of time, and I couldn’t have done it without him.
I want to say a huge thank you to everyone who has helped me during this climb: Lama and all the very strong Sherpas Tenjing sherpa, Pasang nurbu sherpa, Lakpa temba sherpa, Mingma tenjing sherpa, Pasang sherpa, Lakpa gyaljen sherpa, Seven Summit Treks , all of you and my amazing sponsors.
Peak 9
Manaslu
Date of Summit: 10 June 2023, 03.24am Local time.
Height above Sea Level: 8,163 metres (26,781 ft)
Manaslu is the eighth-highest mountain in the world.It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. The name Manaslu means “mountain of the spirit” and is derived from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning “intellect” or “soul”.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | June 7 | – | – |
| BC – C1 | June 8 | – | 5h 39min |
| C1 – C2 | June 8 | – | 2h 25min |
| C2 – C3 | June 9 | C3 | 5h 46min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Heli out.
The story from Manaslu, 8163m, June 10th.
I’m so happy to be done and to be safe after the 9 mountains in Tibet and Nepal. I would never have been able to do this without my sponsors, my team at home, Lama, all the Sherpas that have been with us, and of course Seven Summit Treks .
We left from Ktm Thursday morning and I felt really sick, so we had a short rest in BC before we started to climb up to C1. It took us 5h up with really good snow and great weather.
At 1:30am Lama and I started to climb up to C2 and it was a really nice climb up. We rested until morning and continued until C3 where we rested more and left for summit push at around 5:30pm. I was still very tired and in bad shape, so I had put on oxygen in C3.
It was really amazing conditions on the mountain, I couldn’t believe how different it was from the autumn last year. When we came up to C4, I knew it would be much faster. The conditions were unbelievably good and we went so fast up, we reached the summit after 10h!
The summit was very different than in autumn, a lot of rocks and a lot of wind. We took some pictures in the dark. I was glad that I previously summited during the day so I saw the amazing view before. Then, we climbed down very fast and reached BC at I around 12pm.
I arrived in Ktm in a very bad shape and after coming to the hotel, I called Allie Pepper. I was not doing well and she convinced me to go to the hospital. I was very dehydrated and tired, so I stayed there and came out yesterday afternoon.
I’m so tired but happy to have finished 9 mountains in the spring together with Lama. It was a super strong and very good team. It could not have been done without SST. I’m super grateful for everyone who has supported me on and off the mountains. I am tired now, but I am resting before the Pakistan phase and I am so glad we are all safe.
Peak 10
Nanga Parbat
Date of Summit: 26 June 2023, 07.36am Local time
Height above Sea Level: 8,126 metres (26,660 ft)
Nanga Parbat, known locally as Diamer, is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth. It forms the western anchor of the Himalayan Range and is the western most eight-thousander. It lies just south of the Indus River in the Diamer District of Gilgit–Baltistan in Pakistani-administered Kashmir.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | Jun 22 | – | – |
| BC – C1 | Jun 23 | – | 4h 01min |
| C1 – C2 | Jun 24 | – | 7h 35min |
| C2 – C3 | Jun 25 | – | 6h 05min |
| C2 – Peak – C3 | Jun 25 | Above C3 | 16h 46min |
| C3 – C2 | Jun 26 | – | 1h 54min |
Logistics to: Trek in.
Logistics from: Trek out.
The story from Nanga Parbat, 8125m, June 26th.
I want to start this story by congratulating Sophie Lavaud for completing her 14 8000m! This is such a great achievement and I am so happy for her, and so thankful to share some summits with her. For me, mountaineering is less about summits and so much more about the friendships. It was super nice to have Vieidina Alvarez there and so many friends.
After 2 days of trekking, we were very happy to arrive at the beautiful BC. We rested for half a day before starting the climb to C1. On the way, it was just Tenjin, Gabriel and me, with very heavy packs. I was throwing up and there was no chance of me continuing, so we rested in C1 while Makpa and Nima went up to C2.
After 6h I felt better so I changed into my downsuit and we followed them up to C2. It was about 7.5h up and a pretty ok climb. There were some rockfalls but everyone was safe.
Early the next day, we climbed to C3 and caught up with the other teams who were in front of us. MingTemba was incredible and managed to come up from BC to C3 in one push (and kept going)! We rested some hours and started the summit push at 6pm. At around 7000m, we decided to put on oxygen. Lama started before us to lead the fixing team, and we caught up with them. Gabriel’s oxygen mask didn’t work well so he had to climb down to C3.
700m from the summit, we were out of ropes to continue fixing. The conditions were good but windy, so we decided to go up in main rope. Lama, me and Ming followed by Makpa and Nima. We found our way in the dark with my GPS from last year. For the record, I didn’t have five Sherpas with me, Nima Sherpa is an incredible climber and wasn’t climbing as my sherpa. Ming was Gabriel’s sherpa but decided to continue with us when Gabriel went down. It was supposed to be just me and Lama, but I am so glad to have shared this moment with Nima, Makpa and Ming.
It was a long and hard push to the summit, it’s much harder to climb without fixed ropes. We took some pictures and then started our climb to BC.
Peak 11
Gasherbrum II
Date of Summit: 15 July 2023, 08.21am Local time.
Height above Sea Level: 8,035 metres (26,362 ft)
Gasherbrum II is the 13th highest mountain in the world. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang,China.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | Jul 11 | – | – |
| BC – C1 | Jul 12 | – | 8h 15min |
| C1 – C2 | Jul 14 | – | 6h 23min |
| C2 – Peak – C2 | Jul 14 | Above C3 | 18h 41min |
| C2 – C1 | Jul 15 | – | 2h 59min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Trek to PB BC.
The story from Gasherbrum II, 8035m, July 15th.
After waiting for the permit for 12 days in Skardu, we were finally ready to start climbing on Gasherbrum. I started feeling the altitude a little when we started to climb up GII because we had spent so many days down. Again, I got some food poisoning and started throwing up in BC.
We climbed up the Ice Fall up to C1 and had much better conditions then last year. The next morning, MingTemba and Lama started to climb further up, at around 2am. They fixed the ropes up to C2. Gabriel and me started some hours later and climbed up to meet them. In the meanwhile, MingTemba and Lama had fixed ropes all the way to C3. So they came back down to C2 to pick us up.
After a few hours rest in C2, we started the summit push from there. This means MingTemba and Lama had very very hard day, they climbed up to C3 from C1, then back to C2 and after only a little rest they were with us to climb all the way to the summit. From C3 to C4, we had old ropes but from C4 we climbed on main rope. We also had to fix some ropes on the ridge closer to the summit. I put on oxygen at little bit above 7000m.
We reached the summit early in the morning, at around 7:30am. It took us about 13h up and we were lucky to have a little bit of good weather on the summit to actually see some of the other mountains like K2. Especially since on the way up there was not so good weather.
Because G2 and G1 share C1, we only went back down to C1 after the summit and rested there.
I am so thankful for the great job MingTemba and Lama did by fixing the ropes just the two of them. They are such strong and amazing sherpas and this summit would not have been possible without them. It’s thanks to them that we were the first team on the summit this season again.
Peak 12
Gasherbrum I
Date of Summit: 18 July 2023, 05.42am Local time.
Height above Sea Level: 8,080 metres (26,510 ft)
Gasherbrum I is the 11th highest mountain in the world. It is located between Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Tashkurgan inthe Xinjiang of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum Massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| BC – C1 | Jul 12 | – | 8h 15min |
| C1 – C2 | Jul 16 | – | 5h 58min |
| C2 – C3 | Jul 17 | – | 6h 13min |
| C3 – Peak – BC | Jul 17 | – | 22h 49min |
Logistics to: Heli in.
Logistics from: Trek to PB BC.
The story from Gasherbrum I, 8080 m, July 18th.
After G2, we went down to the shared C1 where we had a rest. The next morning, we started going up to C2. It was a short climb up with good weather.
The next day, a pretty big group of us went up the Japanese couloir where the rope was already fixed. It made it much easier than last year where we had to fix rope in bad weather. This year we still had bad weather, it was okay in the start but got bad up to C3, which made us worried about the summit push.
After a couple hours rest, the weather got better and we started up to the summit. From there and up, there was no fixed rope and since its possible to go up with just main rope, that’s what we did.
We were following my tracker from last year and I was feeling good so I continued without oxygen. When we were almost at the summit we realised we were on the wrong way, we came up a little too much to the left. So we had to take a different, much harder route up to the top. Even then, it only took us 8h up. This was very fast, especially since I had used no oxygen.
I was feeling very good, it was a beautiful day on the summit and I spent more than 1h up there. The view was great!
It wasn’t very hard to climb without oxygen. But I could only do it because of great weather. Many people criticise that the way I climb is not “pure” alpinism. So was this climb pure alpinism since I used no oxygen and used only main rope to the summit? No, of course not. But for me, as long as people don’t hurt anyone else and as long as they are open and honest about it, let people climb the way they want. Especially since people have different capabilities and react differently to the altitude. But of course, to be able to do the 8000m mountains without oxygen, you need to be in the right shape, very well acclimatised, and have good weather.
Peak 13
Broad Peak
Date of Summit: 23 July 2023, 05.03am Local time.
Height above Sea Level: 8,051 metres (26,414 ft)
Broad Peak is one of the Eight-thousander peak located in the Karakoram range of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China, the twelfth-highest mountain in the world.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | Jul 18 | – | – |
| BC – C1 | Jul 19 | – | 8h 50min |
| C1 – C2 | Jul 21 | – | 8h 52min |
| C2 – C3 | Jul 22 | – | 5h 33min |
| C3 – Peak – BC | Jul 22 | Above C3 | 18h 57min |
Logistics to: Trek in.
Logistics from: Trek to K2 BC.
The story from Broad Peak, 8051m, July 23rd.
We arrived to the Gasherbrum BC in the late evening and waited until the next morning before we started to trek to the Broad Peak BC. We did about a 12h trek from Gasherbrum BC to Broad Peak BC.
We spent around 24h there before we started our climb up to C2. The conditions were pretty good and there were less rockfalls then last year, so I was very happy for that. The morning after, we continued up to C3 which took us a little longer than last year because there was more snow. We took a few hours rest in C3 before we continued to the summit. It was at around 7500m that I put on oxygen.
The weather wasn’t very good, with some snow and some wind, but we reached the summit ridge after about 7h of climbing. It took us 3h to cross the summit ridge, which is very long and dangerous, so that we could reach the true summit at around 5. Unfortunately, just like last year there was no good view up there so we didn’t see much.
I was very happy to be on the summit and with a great team. It was me, Lama , Gabriel, MingTemba, Pasang Nurbu, Nigma Sherpa and Nima Sherpa. Nigma had already been on the Broad Peak summit once, so he was really important in reaching the summit in good time.
After an hour, we decided to try to go as fast down to BC as we could. We did this so that we could get more rest before the last mountain. Broad Peak and K2 Base Camps are only about 45min to 1h away from each other and we went directly to K2 BC after this summit. We reached it at 2pm.
Peak 14
K2
Date of Summit: 27Jul 2023, 11.18am Local time.
Height above Sea Level: 8,849 metres (29,032 ft)
K2 is the second highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest. It lies in the Karakoram range.
Track Information
| Track | Date | Oxygen | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| To BC | Jul 23 | – | – |
| BC – C2 | Jul 24 | – | 10h 57min |
| C2 – C3 | Jul 26 | – | 6h 49min |
| C3 – Peak – BC | Jul 26 | Above C3 | 33h 25min |
Logistics to: Trek from BP.
Logistics from: Heli out.
On K2 there was a terrible accident, everything that happend on K2 is written in the blog post below.
What happened on K2, 27/07/2023
This is a difficult statement to write. As many people already know, Muhammed Hassan passed...
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Past Expeditions
2015
Kilimanjaro, Africa.
5895 meters (Seven Summits)
2019
Lobuche East, Nepal.
6119 meters
2019
Lobuche East, Nepal.
6119 meters
2015
Kilimanjaro, Africa.
5895 meters (Seven Summits)